(Please click on any image to see a larger picture.)
While investigating paints at a local store, I spotted a pile of cans labeled "Mis-Tints" sitting in a corner. One label that captured my attention said "Elasto Wall". Now that sounded interesting, so for $4, I took home a gallon of beige rubberized paint.
This is a water-based coating that's 45% solids, and rolls on very easily ... no smell, easy cleanup!
After applying the first coat I realized I should have had a light inside the hull to better monitor paint coverage and thickness.
I did this for the next two coats and ended up with a satisfactory covering. The paint requires at least 24 hours between coats, and another 7 days to cure properly.
Next to go on was a skeg and rub strips along the keel. I screwed these on, with a bit of sealer under the screws, so they could be removed if/when the boat needs a new skin or the strips need renewing.
On the main thwart, I'm not that happy with the design, but as on most "firsts" I stuck to the plans. It's made of 1"x1" red cedar with Okume plywood gussets at all joints and on the ends. The center part, where ones 'seat' goes, is heat-shrink Dacron held on with Heat 'n Bond tape. Yeah, I know .... I sat down for the first time really carefully!
A centerboard slot plug is needed to keep water out when rowing or towing. I got the idea from an article on dagger boards at the Duckworks website.
The bottom part of the plug is not watertight, but effectively plugs water from coming up the slot. If needed, I'll put a pin through the case and plug, near the top of the assembly, to stop the plug from popping out.
Coming next: Part Six-Time for a test on the water!
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