BOAT RESCUE, PART 16: Lots of pictures!

Previously: PART 15: PLAYING WITH LED LIGHTING

It's been a busy time for us this year, and I've neglected my restoration updates, so I'm going to post lots of pictures with as little chatter as possible.

Here goes, I'll start with electrical progress:

Junction block in head, for mast wiring and interior lights.

Electrical panel in progress.

Electrical panel, still a work in progress!

Gantz 30 Watt Solar panel trial fit.

Boat Rescue part 15: Playing with LED Strip Lighting.

Previously: PART 14 UPHOLSTERY TIME

Today I opened the goody drawer and pulled out some things I bought a while ago to light the cabin. My idea is to have the cabins lit with indirect lighting along both sides. The valences covering the hull-deck joint seemed a logical place. The idea is to illuminate the boat enough to find ones way around without draining the battery. To do this I picked up some strip LED's on ebay.

Strip LED's with a solder terminal every three diodes.

They came in a 15' roll with with soldering pads every third diode so one can create custom lengths, Cost, including shipping, was less than seven dollars. 

Valence, upside down, on the bench.

BOAT RESCUE, PART 14: UPHOLSTERY TIME.

Previously: PART 13: A BIT OF EVERYTHING

With the cooler weather here again it was time to line up an indoor job for a few days. I've had my roll of upholstery fabric for a while, sitting in the basement waiting for some attention.

The first pieces made were the six settee cushions, using super soft foam for filler and covered with an acrylic fiber fill for a bit of extra padding. The fiber fill also makes stuffing the foam into the cover easier.

Cutting fabric, with  windows open and fan on, using a hot knife to prevent fraying,

Because the fabric has a lot of longitudinal fibers, my first attempt cutting it with scissors resulted in a lot of frayed ends coming loose, making it hard to sew. I was concerned the fraying would spread over time and weaken the seams. Using a hot knife solved the problem nicely.

BOAT RESCUE: PART 13, A BIT OF EVERYTHING.

Previous Post: BOAT RESCUE PART 12: HULL PAINT.

The last several weeks have been spent on many smaller tasks, with some left partially finished until old parts were rebuilt or new parts ordered.

One of the important things was to get the engine completely connected to shaft, fuel, water, and exhaust, and give it a test run to check for operation and leaks. This went well, even though I discovered that Vetus water strainers love a slight vacuum, but won't tolerate any pressure without leaking water all over the locker. This turned out to be a good test of water being able to find it's way to the bilge without flooding any lockers!
Bennath has a total of seven winches: four in the cockpit, two on the mast, and one on the coach roof. Every winch needed disassembly and cleaning, before reassembly with fresh grease, and new pawl springs. The sheet winches needed the drums re-plated, but the rest were still in acceptable condition.

Typical winch condition.

BOAT RESCUE PART 12: HULL PAINT.

Previous Post: BOAT RESCUE PART 11: INTERIOR FINISH WORK. 

The weather has been perfect and I had all my paint materials in hand, so there was no excuse not to get busy on the hull painting.

Paint Supplies.

Using water-borne paint for the first time was a good reason to invest in a new spray gun.

DeVilbiss Finish Line FLG3 HVLP spray gun

This unit comes with three different sized nozzles,  allowing a wider range of paint types.

BOAT RESCUE PART 11: INTERIOR FINISH WORK.

Previous Post: One Year in Restoration: the Boat Rescue.
It's been a busy summer ... is it almost over already? Between trips in Sin Tacha to the Albin Vega Rendezvous (which turned into an eleven day jaunt) and two weeks in Oklahoma with the "kids", there has been less work done on the Ballad than usual.
I'll update with some captioned photos:

Work continued on the interior:

Water Tank under V-berth.

Because I used slightly thicker plywood for the bulkheads, the chain plates support (lying beween the two bulkheads) would no longer fit. It was cut, shortened, and re-welded to fit tightly between the new plywood. This had to be done on both sides.

Chain Plate Support.

One Year in Restoration, the Boat Rescue.

Previous Post: Part 10: Interior Work Starts in Ernest.
Just a note in passing, today marks exactly one year since we pulled the Ballad home. At times things seem to be going pretty slow, but looking back at the early pictures I realize just how far we've come.

Then ...

BOAT RESCUE PART 10: INTERIOR WORK STARTS IN ERNEST

Previous Post: BOAT RESCUE PART 9: THE FUN CONTINUES.

It seems as though progress has been slow, but checking my photo files I realize this is not the case. Several  non-boat related projects have been completed, freeing me up to concentrate on the Ballad again.

The damage around the table supports in the cockpit floor greeted me every time I climbed into the boat, so it was time to attend to that job.



Leaking damaged area around table leg sleeve.

I cut out the damaged areas around both sockets and filled them with epoxy-soaked plugs, adding a layer of epoxy to fill them back to original floor level.

Epoxy/plywood plug.

A reinforcing piece was added below to strengthen the repair, and allow leg sockets to be added, if needed, in the future.

Epoxy/plywood reinforcement patch, curing with a little help from a heat lamp.

BOAT RESCUE PART 9: THE FUN CONTINUES

Previous Post: BOAT RESCUE PART 8: FIRE IN THE HOLD .... well, in the garage anyway

The last few weeks many projects have been started, but nothing is getting finished as I source, order, and wait for parts I think I need ... only to discover by the time they arrive I've had a better idea and need to re-order!

First on the list was to get the engine into the boat. This was easy: just pull the trailer out of the shed, hoist the engine up to the shed rafters (on a reinforced arch), back the boat into the shed, and lower the engine down.

Yanmar dangling over the cockpit.

This was as good a time as any to refurbish the engine beds. When a P.O. (previous owner) had the Volvo-to-Yanmar conversion done some wooden shims were used to get the correct engine height. This served well for the time it was used but, having the luxury of unlimited time, a more permanent set of shims was made from 1/2" aluminum plate, and the mounts re-drilled, re-tapped, and installed.


Engine beds installed.

BOAT RESCUE PART 8: FIRE IN THE HOLD .... well, in the garage anyway.

PREVIOUS: BOAT RESCUE PART 7: GETTING IT ALL UNDER COVER
The Yanmar 2GM20F is now officially alive. The next step is to build a gantry over the boat to hoist it in. More later!




Next: Boat Rescue Part 9: The Fun Continues.

BOAT RESCUE PART 7: GETTING IT ALL UNDER COVER.

PREVIOUS: BOAT RESCUE PART 6: INTERIOR REBUILD CONTINUES, ENGINE EXAMINED..

(Please click on any picture for an enlargement.)

The original shed was too low to get the Ballad under, so I raised the side walls from pallet height to about 72". This put a wider part of the shed at boat deck level, and gave more headroom when working on the decks.  It was long overdue, as the original pallet base and walls, sitting on the ground, were rapidly turning into compost!


New boat shed walls under old arches.

Next on the program was to get trailer and boat together. This required hiring a local crane to do the job. Having 4-wheel drive and 4-wheel steering certainly helped it negotiate the driveway.

Climbing the steep grade ... backwards!

BOAT RESCUE PART 6: INTERIOR REBUILD CONTINUES, ENGINE EXAMINED..

PREVIOUS: BOAT RESCUE PART 5: INTERIOR REBUILD STARTS.
(Please click on any picture for enlargement).

The interior woodwork has all been fitted, ready for removal, sanding, staining, and varnish varnish varnish!


Galley and Steps on Engine Cover.

You can never have too many clamps!

V-Berth.

BOAT RESCUE PART 5: INTERIOR REBUILD STARTS.

Previous: BOAT RESCUE PART 4: LET THE RESTORATION BEGIN

As you can see by the picture below, Bennath's hull is now free of all the old bottom paint, and since the photo was taken she has lost the blue beltline stripe as well.

Naked hull.

Time to start the layout for new bulkhead panels. As I could not get 15mm plywood I used 3/4" instead ... a little heavier maybe, but one has to go with what's available.

Maximizing wood use.

One bulkhead was too large to get through the hatch, so it had to be cut in two. The new one was also made in two pieces, with a joint 12" in from the inboard edge. This allows the part that bolts to the hull flange to remain in one piece. The two will have to be joined inside the boat.


Main bulkhead joint with joiner strip. (Final strip used was plywood as the grain of the solid wood strip lacked strength.)

BOAT RESCUE PART 4: LET THE RESTORATION BEGIN

(Previous: BOAT RESCUE PART 3: SO, WHAT DID I DRAG HOME?

The rescue of a 1976 Albin Ballad 30' sailboat

It's a relief to stop taking things off the boat and start some serious rebuilding work. One of the first jobs, after removing all the debris from the old ceilings, was to "de-glue" the hull sides. In places the old adhesive peeled off in sheets, partly due to the moist conditions in the boat. But most of it put up a good fight, and it took an assorted arsenal of tools to persuade it to let go.

Tool Arsenal

My main tools were a razor blade scraper, a wire brush, an old 1/2" chisel, gloves, and a kneeling pad. I found that if I kept the razor blade wet when scraping the glue did not re-stick to the fiberglass. Another useful tool was an abrasive pad, also kept wet. Even after it was all removed (two days work) little bits of rubbery glue were everywhere, trying their best to re-adhere to anything they came in contact with!

Wire Brush in Action

Working inside the bare hull was interesting: everything dropped immediately headed for the bilge, and unless I kept a grip on something I was apt to slide bilgeward also!

Most of the gear I removed was in decent shape. The winches, although dirty with debris, are in good working condition and should be fine after a good cleaning and lubrication.

Winch with Drum Removed.

BOAT RESCUE PART 3: SO, WHAT DID I DRAG HOME?

(Previous: BOAT RESCUE PART 2: THE MOVE.)

The rescue of a 1976 Albin Ballad 30' sailboat.
Next step was to see just what I'd bought home. This involved emptying the contents of the boat, and stripping out the interior and mechanical systems. It's really fortunate the boat didn't fit in the shed, as I needed the covered space to store everything!

Lines

BOAT RESCUE PART 2: THE MOVE.

(Previous BOAT RESCUE: THE DANGERS OF SEARCHING CRAIGSLIST.

The rescue of a 1976 Albin Ballad 30' sailboat.
Deciding to rescue a boat is one thing, but the reality of getting it home, where it can be worked on, is a whole different story!

After phoning several different boat movers to get a feel for what I was in for, I settled on Keel Hauling, a local company that had a smaller sized rig that might make it up my driveway. I liked owner Cam McLean's "can do" attitude, and his no BS approach to the project, so we arranged to do the deed on the following Saturday. As the boat was located on Gabriola Island this meant a ferry ride was part of the operation.

Cameron McLean and his rig



On arrival at the site we discovered the boat was sitting too low to be loaded easily, and we spent several hours jacking and blocking things until the trailer could be slid underneath.

Sliding the trailer under the hull.

11th ANNUAL PACIFIC NORTHWEST ALBIN VEGA RENDEZVOUS

(click on any image for a larger version)

This year's Pacific Northwest Rendezvous was held July 1st to 3rd at Deer Harbor Marina on beautiful Orcas Island, in the San Juan Island group, USA.

Our gracious and hard working hosts were VEGAtarians 

Sheila Gaquin and Howard Barbour, of Deer Harbor.

Thanks !!!!

BOAT RESCUE PART 1: THE DANGERS OF SEARCHING CRAIGSLIST.

(Click on pictures to enlarge.)

It seems I have become a two-boat owner again. While searching Craigslist the other day for boats for sale in this area an unbelievably 'cheap' boat showed up. Worse still, it was a make and model I have lusted after for a couple of years, an Albin Ballad. She's a 29' 11" cruiser/racer with fin keel and skeg-hung rudder with, in my eyes, drop-dead beautiful lines.

After initial inquiries, it turned out the boat had belonged to a sailor who had passed away a couple of years ago, and the boat had sat in the woods for five years. Yikes!! Before that she had been raced successfully in Vancouver, and had also made a return trip to Hawaii.

Still, I had to see her or I wouldn't sleep at night for wondering if she really was a real bargain. Arrangements were made to view, and we drove up to Nanaimo, caught the ferry across to Gabriola Island, and followed the directions that we'd been given.

Lo and behold, there she was parked on a muddy track, listing a bit to Starboard, covered with dead leaves and branches, and supported by many props, some looking pretty rotten.

The "BLACK FLY" Dinghy 8: Sailing Rig Details.

The Black Fly and my Eastport Pram share the same mast, boom, and sail. Originally for the Eastport Pram, the rig is a copy of the popular Sabot rig, which I much prefer to CLC's standing-lug design.

The Mast: is made from 1 1/2" 065 aluminum tubing. I cut mine in half to allow it to be stored in the forward cabin of the Vega. It's joined with a 12" piece of 1" aluminum pipe (1.3" OD, 0.125 wall thickness). The pipe is a loose fit in the mast tube, so a few wraps of electricl tape were used to fatten up the pipe to a nice friction fit. There is also a 36" length of tube, same size as the boom tube, inserted into the base of the mast to stiffen the lower section .... with more good old electrical tape!

The Boom: is made from 1 1/4" 065 aluminum tubing, with a laminated plywood jaw on the end that fits around the mast.

BILGE PUMPS AND OIL SPILLS

Like a lot of boat owners I have an electric bilge pump with an automatic float switch lurking in the depths of the bilge, to insure against accidental sinking when the boat is unattended. Coupled to two deep cycle golf cart batteries, which are connected to two solar panels, that little pump should keep working until the cows come home.

However, I often feel concern over the fact that if my fuel tank leaks and floods the bilge with Diesel the float switch will come on and merrily pump 33 liters of fuel overboard into the marina. Having seen what a cupful of fuel does in the water, I shudder to think of a whole tank full!

A little research turned up a float switch that is operated by having two electrodes that complete a circuit when immersed in a conductive solution (salt water) but will not activate when submerged in Diesel oil. Water Witch is one of these. I like the way it straps right to the pump, as shown in the picture below.

The one downside I see is that pure rainwater (does such a thing exist?) will not activate the contacts. But as I have a conventional stuffing box and there is always a dram of salt water in the bilge I don't see this as a problem.

I think this would be a worthy upgrade ... one of those little things you never see or think about while on the boat, yet providing peace of mind when the boat is unattended. Needless to say, before I make a final purchase, the usual research will be done to make sure this product is a "best choice" for my application.

July 2011.
I have installed this switch and it works well .... very simple and effective. Contrary to some reports it does respond to fresh water as well as salt water.